Mostly seems reasonable. Your thinking on the river push with the wheel was very sensible.

I'd say you're *perhaps* underrating middle and bottom set and top two a little bit, though - in a low level game I pretty much never fold middle set on the flop (unless there's a straight or flush possible) and in many cases your opponents tell you they're on a draw by their betting in which case even top two can be a decent hand. These sort of "might be ahead but might be buried" hands (where you're either reasonably well ahead with a made hand vs a draw or miles behind with a made hand vs a better made hand) are SO much more powerful if you have a bit of a draw (even a pretty skimpy one) on the side. Heads up even a weedy flush draw, 8 high or something, might be useful if you lead out middle set and get raised. If it ends up all in and you're facing down the barrel of top set, the weedy flush (if good, which is extremely likely) ups your EV from 5-10% max to somewhere in the 30% region which is a huge difference.

Most players bet in a predictable way in low limit games and with a bit of practice you'll be reading their hands well. In general, most players play fairly passively and like to draw far too much, so usually if you bet out with top two or bottom set and the turn blanks you'll still be ahead. There are a few knuckleheads around who slowplay big made hands but they're few and far between.

As for starting hands, I still think my article about it is reasonable enough and a decent guide for most games. You can play a LOT more hands in LP in all but the most loose passive games and so you should open your range up a bit in the last few seats. I wouldn't worry about raising too much.

In general, hands I like include:

Any high pair (QQ, KK, AA) I can limp in with and look for a set (like small pair strategy in NL)

Hands containing two pair (I like at least one of them to be TT or above but I'll play stuff like 3366 in LP)

Medium and High pairs with connectors (e.g.9TTJ) which can hit two types of flops (in this case any T flop, or any flop like 78x or 89x is good), again i'll throw in the likes of 6653 in LP but that might be a bit loose if you're not keen on making marginal moves with low sets.

Any 4 cards that run together fairly well - I play any wrap (though A234 unsuited is poor) and practically any one-gapper (e.g. 3457) in most positions, though need to be a bit tighter in EP obviously. Gapper hands are stronger with the gaps at the bottom (QJT8 is a lot nicer than 89TQ). I'll play some two-gappers in LP like 578T, especially if a few cards are suited.

I also play suited aces with a pair on the side (ideally something medium-to-high) in a limped pot (though it's a devalued hand against aggressive players, esp. OOP) and suited aces with a connecting or roughly connecting 3 sidecards (stuff like A467 with a suited ace is reasonably playable IMO). I sometimes raise the stronger variants of these hands in LP.

I'll play pretty much any four cards over a 9 as well.

That's about it really. Try to avoid playing medium and lower pairs (anything jacks and worse really) on LAG tables where you're going to have to call raises PF with no sidecards, and stay away from hands with big gaps and none of the above features, even if they do have a suited ace or something. A hand like Ah Kh 8d7s is really not very good at all.