Well I will give my opinion and you can take it for what it's worth.

1. I would start at 12 limit just to get my feet wet and stay there until my bankroll was at 1500.00 at which time I would move up to 24 limit and stay there until my bankroll reached 2500 at move up to 36.

2. Hard to answer as it is really going to depend on your skill level but I have given a conservative estimate on a table elsewhere in this section I believe. If not just search my post.

3. Big Bet. Double the big blind.

4. Many times it is correct to chase in limit were it is not correct to do so in NL. Many more but such a big subject can't come close to answering all of it here.

5. Perhaps tighten up a little bit from 18% VIP. Also a slightly different suite of hands that you should be playing from NL to limit in my opinion anyway. I play alot more suited connectors and pairs in NL than I do in limit and nearly always fold hands like AJo in NL where I would play it many times in limit. Just a few examples.

6. For 12 limit 50 should be sufficient and 100 should be enough for 24.



6.

Nathan--

Well, ill give you some brief answers to some of your Q's. I dont want to say TOO much because Piers will probably bitch slap me when i turn out to be incorrect, but here goes.

1) If oyu have a 1300 BR, and really really dont want to rebuy, I would be playing 3/6 at the most. the more conservative of us would say you should be playing 2/4 with the broll. Having a 300 BB (Big Bet, in whatever your playing) broll is kindof a consensus.
-This def. applies if you are multitabling
-if you are not multi-tabling, you can probly get away with playing 3/6, though i cant imagine why you wouldnt multi.
2) I think anything over 2 BB/hr is pretty darn good. I am around 2.5, even with the losing tear ive been on, and im pretty satisfied with it.
3) A BB is a big bet, i.e. $4 if your playing 2/4
4) Differences in limit. Uhm, pretty much what you said. You can also value bet more marginal hands (marginal for NL) at the river, for profit. Like top pair, decent kicker for example, if you think youve got a bigger pair than your opponent, or think you have him outkicked. The other thing is that some hands go up in value and some down. For example, micro pocket pairs go down in value because limit hands dont have the same IMPLIED ODDS that NL hands do, i.e. your not gonna take someones entire stack off them when you flop a set of deuces against thier AA, so calling raises with micro PP's and small soooooted cards is generally a bad idea, unless the pot has lots of people in already.
5) 18 VPIP is not that bad...I think 15% is what most reasonably tight players strive for (piers can correct me if im wrong here). Your PFA and PFR seem fine to me.
--2.7 might even be a tad on the aggressive side for full ring limit?
6) I like to buyin to games for about 15-20 BB. Less than that, and your on short money, IMHO. That not only makes YOU play less aggressively than you need to, but also makes others think they can lean on you, which is something that you definitely dont need, esp. if you are a newb at limit.
6) See Q1
7) Okay piers, let 'er rip...

Didnt see piers' reply! Ah well. What he said.