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At the time being I don't think I am paying enough attention to position, I'm going to work on that.
EP
AAxx down to JJxx
Wrap hands with no danglers, but gaps are acceptable. T765 would be an example of the worst hand I would play.
Suited aces if the other three cards work somewhat. I currently play AQ76s but that could be a bad idea I guess.
MP
Adding lower wrap hands, more liberal with suited Aces. AT73s probably gets played (leak, rigtht?), and TTxx might get a limp too.
LP
All suited Aces, all two-pair hands except the ugliest (9922 and such). Ugly wraps like J986.
Blinds
I tend to complete with LP hands in the SB but I am *Extremely* conservative about calling any sort of raise.
I'm thinking I need to tighten up some on all levels, move my EP to MP and my MP to LP and just fold my current MP requirements. First two seats should probably only be very co-ordinated hands.
I raise very rarely and only fdrom the last three seats. Hands I raise are either really good AA hands or perfect wrap hands like T987. This raising amount should mean that people with PT/PA think I *only* raise AA hands and add deception to my wraps.
Calling raises
I think I've been doing this too much with high pair hands. After reading the post about that I'm definetely considering stopping that completely and instead only call with premium wrap hands or pairs where the side cards are synced, like my favorite hand KKJT. Intuitively it feels like 9876 is a better hand to call a raise with than KKxx or QQxx. I also try to not call raises OOP unless there are plenty of other callers or some other incentive (like the raiser being very bad post flop).
Post flop
If I got a premium draw with action in a multiway pot, I just get it all in. The overall idea is to give massive action with my draws (on the flop in multiway pots) to create an image so people then pay me off when I am pushing the nuts on the turn in shorthanded pots. It also removes a lot of hard decisions for me. Basically I try to only play big pots where I'm either holding the nuts or a good draw.
Since I am still new to the game I try to use the KISS method most of the time. I don't tend to draw unless it is to the nuts and I'm paying a bit of attention to pot odds at least. For example I don't call a pot bet with only a naked nut flush draw unless there's at least another caller in the mix (I figure implied odds make up for the 3-1 instead of 4-1). In a heads up situation I am much more inclined to call with a wrap than a flush draw since it seems straights get paid off much more due to being less obvious.
Overpairs just go into the muck in multiway pots. I'm considering folding them even in smaller pots due to dirty two-pairs being so easy to hit, basically I don't know where I am in a hand with AA when the board is K973 and someone is betting, fearing a two-pair I am inclined to fold but will bet if checked to.
River
Here I usually use standard game theory. If I have a hand that I want to show down I bet/fold it against a passive opponent and check/call against an aggressive one. When I have the nuts I try to put my opponent on a hand and figure how much he will call, the more obvious my hand is the smaller the bet. If I think he's on top set and I rivered my gut shot I'm going to pot him. When I bluff I'm trying to figure out whether he has a weak or semi-weak hand and bet accordingly (ie: if I think he has a busted flush draw and I can't beat a busted draw most of the time, I'll bet smaller, if I think he has a straight but the board paired or the flush came, I'm betting bigger). I only bluff if I can put opponent on a hand and/or he shows what I think is genuine weakness. I don't think I bluff too much at the moment, in fact I think I bluff too little.
These are just some semi-random thoughts and representations from my strategy, I can't really go into detail or delve deeper into my thinking without creating a humongous post or seperating it into categories. I'm hoping for both specific and general advice and corrections.
Statistics: Posted by Stoneburg — Fri May 12, 2006 9:30 am
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