The live game I play in is ridiculously loose, and I want to cultivate a strategy to cream these idiots after getting flush over flushed and having my overpair cracked OOP to a 97 flopped boat.

Literally, it is ridiculous. Im making $35 raises with QQ and get called by BUTTON with QJ or 25 with AQ and get called by BB with 10Joff who flops a straight.

They are relatively easy to play against post flop and I save money but I really dont know where I am and get into tough spots quite frequently.

Also, I have resolved to get there earlier because the play is insane and plays like a 5/10 or 10/20 game when everyone is 500BB deep.

Whats a good PF strategy to use? I don't want to make continuation bets when I pump to $35 with AJ on the CO and get called by button with Q10s on a board neither of us hit, cause then I just toss my $70 CB into his stack if he hits his 2 pair. So, yes I have been playing uberpassive and mucking my queens when an over hits cause 80% of the time I am behind.

With over $100 in the pot though, its tough pill to swallow.

I see one nit making huge raises PF (like $60) and geting a caller and checking it down if overcards or he doesnt hit. He makes money doing it this way. Even for an uber donk I guess its hard to call $60 with 57s. At the same time though, I dont want everyone to fold to my aces or kings.

Should I limp uberraise with my premiums from EP? Whats a good raise from LP or OTB with say, AQ against these morons? If I make it 15 and I get two callers, EVERYONE ELSE CALLS TOO OBV. If I make it $40 sometimes I get one, sometimes I get none, and waiting 4 hours to pick up $3 is trying.

Anyone point me to some good strategy on how to get the monies?

I think a 'GET IN CHEAP, AND TAKE THEIR STACKS WITH 2PAIR OR BETTER' seems about right, but my live BR is not prepared for major swings ATM.

Are you tellin gus that this game regulary has multiple guys 500BBs deep? Is it a no max buy in game? If not, thats hard to believe.

If its a no max buy in game, then calling raises with 97 , JT and / or QJ is no surprise.

In a game like that, big pairs arent all that valuable. One pair isnt what you want to be holding.

when I first starting playing DEEP stack hold em, I got creamed and couldn't figure out what was going on, I was playing the same successful game as 100bb stacks.

The implied odds of playing connectors and even junk is huge if the guy you are playing will overplay his "big pair". That's what I did (overplayed) and they gutted me regularly with 84o and J2s.

You definitely have to loosen up and play late position more in deep games. I find it much more difficult than 100bb buy ins, I am still working on it.

*EDIT* I thought about this more last night after I posted. When playing deep, your raises and bets have to be bigger to take aware their implied odds, basically a Donkey Tax for chasing. This was the mistake I was making when I played deep NLHE, all my bet sizing was correct for a 100bb game, but insufficient for Deep Play. Their implied odds if they hit were great.

JC

Basically this is how it pans out.

I get there at 8pm and there are 2 rocks, 4 super aggro donkeys, 2 loose aggressive, and 2 calling station chasers at the table.

The chasers have either 3-500BB or are shortstacked, the rocks still have their buy in of 100BB, the loose aggressive are up or down and the super aggro donkeys all have big stacks.

After playing TAG for three hours the rocks are gone, I have 300BB, the donkeys all have at least 500BB and Im OTB with AK and $200 in the pot cause I raised to $50 and got three callers.

SOunds like you should leave when you get 300BBs because you arent at your best playing deep stacked. No shame in that. Nothing wrong with leaving up 200BBs.

Why not just get in cheap with hands that can flop hard (SCs, PPs) and play your big hands more cautiously. AK is a terrible hand in a deep stacked game. Sure, raise AA to $50 if you can get action, but don't do it will AK, or atleast not all the time.