I got stacked on this one, and I am wondering how I could play it differently. One way is to check-fold on the flop (*cough* weak tight *cough*). The other is to fold after the raise on the turn.

My thought when I called the turn was that if that J helped him, then I probably had the low wrapped up. I was wrong. Getting counterfeited on the river was just a slap in the face.

Villain is a small winner in my PTO db, but his aggression is extremely high (over 3).

Your thoughts?

$25 PL Omaha Hi/Lo
Seat 7 is the button
Total number of players : 8
Seat 3: Seeker21 ( $21 )
Seat 5: pokerdand ( $33.43 )
Seat 6: barbarian05 ( $38 )
Seat 8: vicnik19 ( $29.50 )
Seat 9: mystentor ( $22.40 )
Seat 10: Therabbit555 ( $30.65 )
Seat 7: noahzn ( $61.59 )
Seat 4: Hero ( $24.75 )
vicnik19 posts small blind [$0.10].
mystentor posts big blind [$0.25].
** Dealing down cards **
Dealt to Hero [ 3c 2c 7h 6c ]
Therabbit555 folds.
Seeker21 folds.
Hero calls [$0.25].
pokerdand calls [$0.25].
barbarian05 raises [$0.50].
noahzn folds.
vicnik19 calls [$0.40].
mystentor folds.
Hero calls [$0.25].
pokerdand calls [$0.25].
** Dealing Flop ** [ 3d, 3h, 7d ]
vicnik19 checks.
Hero bets [$2.15].
pokerdand folds.
barbarian05 calls [$2.15].
vicnik19 folds.
** Dealing Turn ** [ Js ]
Hero bets [$6.25].
barbarian05 raises [$25].
Hero is all-In.
** Dealing River ** [ 2h ]
barbarian05 shows [ 4h, Jc, Jd, Ad ] a full house, Jacks full of threes.
barbarian05 shows 7,4,3,2,A for low.
Hero doesn't show [ 3c, 2c, 7h, 6c ] a full house, Threes full of sevens.
barbarian05 wins $1.45 from side pot #1 with a full house, Jacks full of threes.
barbarian05 wins Lo ($1.45) from side pot #1 with 7,4,3,2,A.
barbarian05 wins $24.13 from the main pot with a full house, Jacks full of threes.
barbarian05 wins Lo ($24.12) from the main pot with 7,4,3,2,A.

I think I fold to the his turn raise. I don't see many people bluff like this without he higher boat. In fact, I can never remember a time when someone raised me on the turn when they called the flop and didn't have me tied at very worst but 95% of the time had me beat.

How about mucking this hand pre flop in early position?

lol... yeah. i usually do. my vpip in the 100 game was a dreadful 15% (card dead mostly).

my 25plo8 vpip is in the low- to mid- 20s. i am trying to apply the concept that i don't need to be "tight" pre-flop, but that i need to be tighter than the table. for this table (and most at Party), i'm thinking in the low- or mid- 30s. that being said, i am having a hard time figuring out what to add to my starting hand selection.

my thought in this hand is to play a hand that has value if an A hits and or if a wheel hits. it's just too easy to take money from people with counterfeited lows (e.g., if the A hits) or a low str8 hits (e.g., two people jam for the low while you get the top half).

i am also adding omaha hi hands like 789T -- it's frightening how often you get paid when you hit. the reason these aren't normally good hands is that there is the assumption that you are playing HU for half the pot, so there is little profit potential. at party, however, this is not necessarily the case. you can get lots of action from 2pr and no low, and you can get lots of action just on the various draws. as such, i think that a made high is worth a lot more than the books suggests -- at least at 25plo8.

any comments on less-than-premium hands to play?

all of that being said... it is not smart to play these kinds of hands oop. i was card dead at the 100s when i played this, iirc, so i just wanted to do something.

yeah... i'm not in a hurry to raise the vpip, but i need to learn how to do it. sometimes you just have to play more hands so that you can lucksack into some good flops. the quality of post-flop play definitely will make a difference in profitablity, and i think this hand shows that i need some work post-flop (actually, i'm chalking it up to rust... i regretted calling as soon as i hit the button).

ok, A4 and A5 sounds good. i'll see if i can refine those hands by looking at what profitable features can be added (suited A, of course, being one).

Thanks Monk, I certainly don't consider my opinion above reproach, and it would be cool to compare some categories, if for nothing else than to see the difference between the $25 and $50 tables that I play and the $100/200/400 that you're usually on.

My thought on QQTT vs QQJJ is with QQTT you HAVE to get a Jack to hit a str8, where connectors give you more options. Maybe not a huge difference I guess.

I totally agree with you about being more aggressive in LP, if anything. Advice I should probably heed myself, now that you mention it.