by Ojingo » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:07 pm
These are good questions, but as always a lot depends on the type of opponents you're facing and the game dynamics. There are some factors that always play, such as number of opponents, your image and the tendencies of your opponent(s) to call with certain possible hands, to checkraise, to float, to slowplay, etc. Especially in shorthanded games and HU there is also a lot of metagame in that you have to bet a variety of hands when checked to and that you have to make sure that your opponent cannot tell from your bet whether it is a weak or strong made hand, a big or a small draw, or a complete bluff.
Ii'll try to give some answers assuming that we are playing say 6 handed in a vacuum, i.e. against unknown opponents and with no considerations about table dynamics; however, there is one really important factor on which all depends even more, namely relative stack sizes. To illustrate this point, assume that you have a so-so draw (say 6 outs). If the pot is very small (say limped pot, 3 players) then you can always take a stab, because not much is lost when you get raised off your hand. However, if the pot is big, and a bet would put say 30% of your effective stack in, then you want to think twice before you bet since you have to fold to a raise. But if the pot is so big (or the effective stacks are so small) that you have way less than a potsized bet left, then you may just want to semibluff allin if you think the combination of folding equity plus your actual equity against a hand that may call you is positive.
One concept which always applies is pure equity: if your draw is so strong that you would have called a potsized bet to begin with, then you should just pot it yourself. So those draws are really not the issue, since you're not (semi-)bluffing, you're betting for value.
As for question 2) I think my general philosophy at 6max is to bet all reasonably strong draws to the nuts, in almost any position.
In position, I tend to check weaker draws more when I am facing opponents who will checkraise a lot with both strong hands and air. Out of position, I will also check weaker draws (sometimes intending to fold) more often, but I balance that by checkraising stronger draws (which, of course, I need to do in order to be able to checkraise my top sets etc.).
All this is a matter of frequencies which you can adapt over the course of play. So maybe I start out by betting 60% of the time with a bare nut flush draw, but when I find that I get checkraised too often I have to reconsider this (and adapt by either checking behind more, or felting the hand more if I feel the opposition is checkraising with marginal holdings).
Last to act I will typically bet the nut flush draw regardless of the number of opponents. The worst that can happen is that there is a checkraise and that everyone else folds, but generally this is an excellent chance to build a big pot.
For question 1) things are more subtle, an in a big multiway pot I will often check behind with non-nut draws to see what develops and to keep the pot manageable. This is another important concept: if you're involved in hands which may be second best, don't escalate the pot, especially against decent opponents.
This changes quite a bit in shorthanded games where you can also be more aggressive with non-nut draws.
Another important concept/consideration is cleaning up outs: if you think that the opposition will fold a higher flush draw to a potsized bet, then it may well be worth the investment, especially if you have a combination draw. If you have, say, 6 nut outs to the straight and 9 outs to a medium flush, then you may want to consider betting in order to get someone to fold a higher flush draw. Of course, it depends on the type of opponents whether they will actually do so.
As for 3) I think you got it the wrong way around. If I'm betting my nut flush draw I love to get called by a straight draw, especially if I'm last to act. Indeed, this puts money in the pot; some of their outs are tainted and if the flush hits they may even try to represent it. Keep in mind that there are several good things that can happen: first, you may simply win the pot with your bet. Second, you may get a ton of callers, in which case you put in money in the pot as a money favorite, so you earned Sklansky $$. Third, you may get a call from someone who is also drawing, and then you may steal the pot on a blank turn, or bet 1/2 pot when the board pairs.
If the board is completely dry I will often still bet, but be much more worried about a flat call which now may mean that someone is "waiting for the safe turn" with top set, or playing top two or a smaller set cautiously. This means that I will usually not continue betting the turn, but take my free card then (in which case a good opponent can probably outplay me on a blank river or a board pair).
Question 4) is really complicated and depends on a huge amount of things. All the above considerations about value, cleaning up outs, board texture, etc. still apply, but you're at a disadvantage because of your bad position. Generally with a decent draw you don't want to get raised off your hand. Also, you don't want to bet, get called, and not know what to do on a blank turn. (For this there are solutions, such as checkraise all in against an aggressive player, but these are not good for lower limit games I think). Small draws in multiway pots I will just check and only call if I get the right odds. Huge draws I will either bet or checkraise, for reasons given earlier. Medium draws I sometimes lead out with if I think I have reasonable folding equity, but usually go by the odds again. Really it is the combination of folding equity and actual equity of your hand versus potential calling hands which dictates your play here. In addition, you should typically also consider your implied odds which can be quite good against people who will automatically take a stab if you check when your draw hits.
These are just a few basic thoughts, and there are really a lot of factors to balance here. Maybe others can chime in?