Starting hands

[Tepshen73]

As far as starting hands go for the beginning playerI came up with this list
AA,KK,QQ,JJ,TT,99,88,77,AK,AQsuited,AJ suited,ATsuited and KQ
any thoughts?
Thanks, Tepshen

[kennyg]

KQ is a dangerous mediocre hand. I recommend taking that hand out of your list unless it is folded to you on the button. AJ can be deadly too but is still much better then KQ. Everything else is fine!

Good luck.

[Blade]

In my experience there is not much difference between ATs and the other Axs. I would alter your list as follows. remove AJs & AJs and instead add Axs from LP with 2 limpers. This will allow you to play the flush draws, top pair from position ( makes up for kicker questions) and steal unwanted pots which will be a semi bluff as you hold a A which gives you an out if you are called.

Just make sure you not calling bets from EP and MP players with just TP. Be the one betting.

[Blade]

oh you can play all PP from MP and on with a set or no bet policy.

[Johnny Hughes]

[iceman5]

Blade, why dont you play any pair in EP?

[Mad Genius]

I think your list is fine but you might want to consider playing medium suited connectors and low pocket pairs, especially in LP. These hands can hit a big flop, and when they do, they are usually extremely well disguised. With low pps, you should ONLY be trying to hit a set, and with medium sc, you should usually be looking to flop a pair and a draw. For example, if you play the [7d]. you should be looking to play a flop like [6d][4d], where you are almost certain to be a favorite against most hands.

[TheUnknownPlayer]

As with any poker related question, the answer is always, 'it depends'.

The question of what starting hands to play depend upon quality of opposition (which may or may not reflect size of game), size of blinds in relation to game size, position, texture of the table, your table image and other factors that didn't come to mind in speed with my typing.

[Ricardooon]

I agree. I will vary hands constantly depending on whats happening. The texture of the table is important to me and also the betting pattern for that hand. Especially late almost anytime it folds to me and I have a playable hand I'm raising. I will also try to mix things up. I do agree with Blade, I am super tight EP as I don't want to kiss money way when someone does a psycho raise. The more passive the table the more hands I feel I can play within reason.

I think starting hand charts are good to a begin with but its good to start pushing as soon as you feel able

Rich

[Braniff]

It is great to figure out what you want to play and what you don't - great job, you're well on your way! However, ultimately you want to figure out why you want to play a hand in the specific situation, not whether it is on the list or not.
Two big cards like AK are worth less than you might think. If you can never get away from one when you have top pair, top kicker, NL will kill you! You don't want to go broke with one big pair. Same it true for AA and KK, although AK is mcuh worse. Small pocket pairs are worth a lot, if you can flop a set, you are in great shape to win you opponets whole stack. But if you don't flop a set, your hand has very little value.
Keep in mind that the #1 goal in NL is to win your opponets whole stack. You are going to have to make an awfully good hand to beat your opponet, because he is also going to need a very big hand to put all his chips in. There is nothing wrong with laying down a winner in NL. In limit, if you constantly lay down the winner, you will go broke. In NL the blinds are so small compared to the implied odds of winning your opponets whole stack, you can wait a long long time for a good situation and not worry about the blinds eating you up.
Good luck, Mike